Kritic's Notebook: Juice

Though Mott’s is far too brawny and full-bodied for this reviewer’s delicate sensibilities, its bouquet is exquisitely varied, with undertones of chestnut, Peruvian apricots, rich soil, cane sugar, lanolin, musky caramel, sandalwood, and margarine— evocative of unrequited love. The palate entry is elegant, but mid-palate tapers into a jarring broadness of crunchy, autumnal qualities that squander the harmonious nostalgia of its first notes. This apple juice is overly emotional, but shows promise. Would be delightful served at a mid-November Bris with braised lamb-shank and sauteed mushrooms in a bechamel sauce du jour.